Pretty Bird is a magic combination of probiotics and prebiotics (called a synbiotic) to help restore a bird's beneficial bacteria to help with its appetite and food uptake.
This promotion of good gut health may contribute to immunity and resilience in cage birds.
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]]>Here a a few tips:
Buying the Tree
Consider a fake one. Real trees are awesome, but pine needles can be dangerous for cats who love to chew foreign objects. If ingested, they can pose a serious health risk. You can easily find a fake tree that still looks realistic, and you can use it year after year.
Go for smaller
A smaller tree is safer for your feline friends, especially if they try to make sneak attacks on it. If the tree falls over, it’s less likely to hurt your kitties—plus, it’ll be easier for you to decorate and clean up, too.
Setting Up the Tree
Wait a minute. You might be used to busting out the ornaments as soon as you get the tree home, but it helps to give your cat a chance to get bored with the tree first. Set up the tree a few days before decorating it so that your companions can investigate it (and hopefully, soon lose interest in it).
Make sure that the tree has a solid base. As mentioned above, cats love jumping on trees, so be sure to set the tree up so that it won’t easily topple over. Securing it to a wall with some wire near the top can help keep it upright.
If you do opt for a real tree, cover the water bowl with a tree skirt and place presents on top of the skirt so that your kitty isn’t tempted to drink the water, which could sicken your pal.
Keep the tree away from launching zones (e.g., furniture) that your cat uses, in order to reduce the temptation to pounce on your tree.
Steer your kitty away. Most cats hate foil and citrus scents, so wrap your tree trunk in foil, and place a few lemon or orange peels around the base. You can also place pine cones around the base.
Decorating the Tree
Focus on the top half of the tree. Place more of your ornaments where it’s harder for your kitty to reach them—at the top and toward the center of the tree (instead of on the ends of the branches).
Take care with lights
Place lights toward the center of the tree so that your cat is less tempted to chew on the wires and cover the end of the wire that plugs into the wall with a cord protector. Always unplug the lights when you’re not able to supervise your cat. If your cat tries to chew the wires, it’s better to take the lights off the tree than risk your friend being burned or electrocuted.
Tie ornaments
Your cat can be injured by the little metal hooks typically used to hang ornaments, so instead, try tying the ornaments to the tree. Make sure the ornaments are secure enough that your cat can’t just run off with them.
Skip the tinsel
Tinsel may be cheap and flashy, but it’s a serious hazard to cats, who often can’t resist eating it and therefore risk choking on it or getting it stuck in their intestines if they swallow it. Go for other types of pretty decor instead, such as paper, wood, or vegan felt decorations, which are less tempting to kitties than the super-shiny stuff.
Avoid other holiday hazards
Don’t risk using decorations such as real candles, small ornaments that your kitty could choke on, or fake snow (which may contain harmful chemicals). And be sure to keep foods and plants that could be poisonous out of kitty’s reach—or better yet, out of your house. These include chocolate, mistletoe, lilies, cyclamen, poinsettias, and amaryllises, among others.
Don’t Stress Too Much
Much like knowing that your cat will inevitably scratch your sofa at some point, it’s good to accept that some cats might climb on trees no matter what you do. So do the best you can to set up a beautiful (and safe) tree, but don’t fret too much if kitty decides to “redecorate.” Life is unpredictable with feline companions—that’s half the fun of it!
Originally published by peta.org
]]>Here are some tips to help keep your dog safe:
If you think your dog may be overwhelmed with lots of new people, put him away from all the action in another room, with a yummy chew or filled Kong. Especially during the more hectic times such as people arriving and leaving.
Crates can be great in this situation! Play some music in the area or leave the TV on to help mask the sounds of activity going on elsewhere.
Even the most social of dogs will need a break from the activity, so make sure you have a suitable area or a crate the dog can chill out in.
Assign an adult (not involved in supervising children) to be in charge of your dog if you can’t be – being sure they look out for signs of stress and protect your dog from any unwanted attention.
Do not allow children to hug or kiss your dog. Dogs do not like hugs and kisses! Even a dog who tolerates this under normal circumstances, may not tolerate this from strangers in a high stress situation with lots of noise and people.
If your dog licks his lips, shows the whites of his eyes or turns his head away when a child or adult is patting him, intervene immediately. These are just a few signals dogs show when they are stressed.
Other signs that your dog does not welcome attention from children or adults include:
The dog tries to walk away or tries to hide under furniture.
The dog freezes and becomes very still with his mouth closed. He may be staring intently at the person bothering him and may growl.
The dog growls or raises fur along his back.
Supervise at all times! Prevention is the key, so help your dog have a Merry Christmas too! Author RSPCA Queensland.
For more information contact the Animal Training and Behaviour Centre on 07 3426 9928 or email: animaltrainingcentre@rspcaqld.org.au
]]>For us at Dynavyte, they combined to design, research and manufacture our unique Dynavyte Pets MBS.
For this alone, they’re worth reading about.
Hubert Regtop is a biochemist and microbiologist holding a Masters of Science, from the University of New South Wales. Hubert has an esteemed career as an University lecturer, research fellow and research director in partnerships with Universities in the US and United Kingdom.
In 1983, he formed Biochemical Veterinary Research (BVR) with Dr Ray Biffin, designing and manufacturing a range of pharmaceutical drugs and nutritional lines for animals. An early success was treating inflammation in dogs and horses. This company today is Agricure.
Hubert was responsible for introducing standardised herbs in Australia, and was commissioned to design and present educational courses on herbal medicine for pharmacists in Australia.
He still consults and lectures on the role of nutrition in medicine, to major health food companies, doctors and pharmacists. He has authored twenty-two scientific publications and has had twenty-three patents approved.
Ray Biffin is a veterinarian and nutritionist with a prodigious career in surgery. He established Murrurundi Horse Hospital, being the first surgeon in world to achieve athletic repair of ruptured anterior cruciate ligaments in horses. He pioneered the use of floatation therapy in the rehabilitation of crippled horses.
Ray has written and designed the programs for the NSW TAFE Farriers’ Apprenticeship and training, NSW Jockeys Apprenticeships’ and NSW Horse Management Diplomas’.
As a nutritionist Ray changed the trainer-breeder misconceptions of horse feeding to a scientific, nutritionally balanced approach. Forming the company, Mitavite, he was the first in the world to come up with the idea of putting everything a horse needed into one feed.
This approach to horse nutrition is now standard.
Responding to a market need, Ray teamed up with world-renowned biochemist Hubert Regtop to establish Biochemical Veterinary Research (BVR), now Agricure. It provides the equine industry with vital research and product development while maintaining a nutrition consultancy to canine, equine and human athletes.
* “A brain the size of the planet” Andrew Denton ABC TV Series “Enough Rope”.]]>